Hi,
Just printing the parts and I was wondering if components such as ZR2.5's BedRailSupport_RR (the printed kite-like thingy, which fixes the tilting rail to the bed frame and is just ~1cm underneath the bed) can withstand the temperatures. Do people find these reliable when printerd in ABS?
Suppose I want to heat my bed up to 130 degrees C and also have a, say, 60-degree-hot enclosure. How hot can these get? Will they not exceed 100 deg?
I was thinking of making them out of stock aluminium L-beam from the outset, but - since this is more work - I'm looking for opinions if this is worth it.
Cheers.
How well do the printed parts right underneath bed hold up to heat?
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Re: How well do the printed parts right underneath bed hold up to heat?
If you're planning actively heat your enclosure - you need to make all of your printed parts from something that will resist the heat.
I'd suggest CF-filled polyamide. There are numerous other options I can suggest, but I'd first need to know if you're based in Poland and what's your printing capabilities and/or budget.
The easiest to print (even for an open printer ) would be Noctuo ABS-MMA. It's a great styrene-based daily driver.
Pa12CF15 is an obvious choice if you have a machine suited to that (extruder gears and nozzles need to be hardened steel, closed build chamber).
Again, Noctuo will be cheaper and better than similar materials from Fiberlogy and F3D.
I'd advise against PA6CF10 from Spectrum - it's brittle.
Higher-end materials are out of the question - if you'd be able to deal with them, you wouldn't be asking this question in the first place.
I can also print parts for you on SLS or MJF for some reasonable amount of money, but it will be much more expensive than printing them yourself on FDM.
I'd suggest CF-filled polyamide. There are numerous other options I can suggest, but I'd first need to know if you're based in Poland and what's your printing capabilities and/or budget.
The easiest to print (even for an open printer ) would be Noctuo ABS-MMA. It's a great styrene-based daily driver.
Pa12CF15 is an obvious choice if you have a machine suited to that (extruder gears and nozzles need to be hardened steel, closed build chamber).
Again, Noctuo will be cheaper and better than similar materials from Fiberlogy and F3D.
I'd advise against PA6CF10 from Spectrum - it's brittle.
Higher-end materials are out of the question - if you'd be able to deal with them, you wouldn't be asking this question in the first place.
I can also print parts for you on SLS or MJF for some reasonable amount of money, but it will be much more expensive than printing them yourself on FDM.
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Re: How well do the printed parts right underneath bed hold up to heat?
Thanks for advice.
Yeah, I'm based in Poland and am currently using an Alfawise U20 (CR10 clone) with a makeshift enclosure.
I'm going to look these materials up and compare their thermal specs to what I can get locally. Or order what you suggested overseas.
Yeah, I'm based in Poland and am currently using an Alfawise U20 (CR10 clone) with a makeshift enclosure.
I'm going to look these materials up and compare their thermal specs to what I can get locally. Or order what you suggested overseas.