HEVORT HT enclosure and heater modifications

[d278te]

No active forms of heat sinking on either. The ball screws are cheap Chinese ballscrews so they’re going to be sacrificial. Depending on how long they last I may upgrade to something less thermally conductive like stainless steel. The linear rails and carriages are industrial surplus stainless steel so I’m not too worried about them. I do have about another 20 carriages and 12 linear rails in case these do go out prematurely though. I am on the hunt for bellows for the rails, though every size I seem to find is for larger rails. I half expected everything in the heated chamber to be sacrificial to a certain extent, it’s just a matter of how long the items last. If I can get 500-1000 hours off one set of fans linear rails and ball screws I’d count this project as a success. On another note I finally tackled the harder bend in my water cooling loop and it came out spot on to my computer measurements. No fiddling around with my 3D digitizer on this one. The results look very nice, check them out.

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[d278te]

Hooked the water cooling loop into itself with no load and filled it up with water. A little nervous since I’ve never done any water cooling prior to this and I really didn’t want any leaks. The radiator fans are the loudest part in this whole setup as the pump it self is mouse fart quiet. I’m going to leave it running for a couple more hours just to make sure there are 0 leaks before I continue to doing more wiring, just wanted to share.

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[d278te]

Made a bit of progress today. Insulated the rest of the printer, mounted the z axis motor heat shield, and installed the Z Axis bed plate.

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I’ve got some FBS jumpers in the mail that are preventing me from finishing the wiring but I’m getting so so close to finishing this.

[d278te]

Little more done tonight. Mounted and aligned all the belts and pulleys. Did a bit of wiring and installed the top left sub plate. I got the jumpers I was waiting for in the mail so I was able to simplify a lot of my wiring down. Here’s where I’m at now

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additionally. I caved and bought a keenovo heater off filastruder because I imagine sometimes I might not want to heat the whole chamber to print some easy materials.

[lede]

I love you wiring management! Might have to really study your image for my build so I can keep it clean and neat.

[d278te]

I love you wiring management! Might have to really study your image for my build so I can keep it clean and neat.

Thank you! after I’m done I can provide a nicer picture covering all the connections in there as well as where I bought everything from. It’s mostly Phoenix contact and wire trunking though so nothing too fancy

[lede]

Thank you! after I’m done I can provide a nicer picture covering all the connections in there as well as where I bought everything from. It’s mostly Phoenix contact and wire trunking though so nothing too fancy

I've used this wiring management in my server farm at work. But seeing it used here is just genius which is why I really like how you have been managing the mess. It is so clean and very inspirational! Thanks for sharing these pics.

[d278te]

Couple small things today. I mounted the last panel and designed some plate holders for my magnet latches. Stole the CAD of a handle off misumi and printed it out and now my frame is completely done. All that’s left is to wire the keenovo heater I’ll be getting in the mail soon and compile some firmware. I’m getting very excited to see this printer move around.

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In addition to this current printer I’m currently modifying the design for even better insulation to reach higher temperatures. I’m modifying the frame to accept an interior wall of panels to accept a kaowool sheet in between the panels. This and a couple other modifications I’m working through should help make an even higher temperature build. As of right now I expect to reach 100c no sweat but the adhesive holding my current insulation begins to break down past about 110c. Kaowool on the other hand is fine up to about 1000c which along with some other tweaks should let me reach about 150c.

[towi1989]

For isolation I highly recommend using PIR foam sheets to fill in the large box sections of the frame. PIR resist high temp, some come with alu foil covering the faces, and 30mm thick sheets cost around 10€/m². You won't have to deal with itchy fibers from glass wool sheets contaminating the build volume.

In the past I've used 30mm thick XPS plates to line the inside of my ender enclosure (made with 2020 extrusions and MDF exterior panels), which reaches 60deg C chamber temps with the stock bed heater on 100C with an 18C ambient room temp.